Merry Christmas and Happy New Years all.
I am sick for the second time in a week so not at work today. I used to think I had a pretty tough stomach. I had made it through three months in SE Asia without getting sick and two in Beijing. But I've been here not even one month and twice I've eaten something that has disagreed with me in a big way. I don't know what is so different about their cooking here, but it's something I'm still getting used to.
Anyway last weekend I headed off to Varanasi. Parts of it I enjoyed and some things I found frustrating. Varanasi's main feature is the Ganges River (or Ganga as they call it here), and Indians go there to bathe and to be cremated. The river itself is pretty filthy but apparently better than it used to be - less raw sewerage. I was slightly surprised that people would swim in it, but they consider it 'good luck', which is the last thing I imagine it could be.
It was a beautiful city. From far away. Huge old buildings line the river, and you get a beautiful view from up high of sunrises and boats along the river. Took a boat ride at sunrise which was good. Up close though, when you are walking along the streets, you have trouble appreciating how pretty it is. You get a lot of touts trying to get you to buy postcards, or take a massage, or jewellery, and you feel like you are always on the defensive. Even on the boat, we had other boats following us trying to sell us garbage. And then there are the animals - a lot more animals in Varanasi (goats, cows, buffalo & dogs mostly) and much tinier streets. TIny alleys where you have to squeeze past people, let alone big bulls, and watch where you step for fear of treading in a pile of shit. Once or twice we had to dive into the nearest doorway to avoid mini-stampedes. So things like that - I don't know I think because I was sick as well, I found it a bit frustrating. I couldn't help thinking, despite not wanting to, why do these people let this happen? why do they let dead dogs lie in the street for a day? why do they bathe in this filthy water? why do they put up with bulls stampeding through their streets? I suppose i had a bit of culture shock.
My mood improved after a couple of days when I felt less sick and started to get better at ignoring the bad and appreciating the good.
I'll post up some photos next week. I'm heading to Nanital this weekend, which is in Uttrachnal , north of Delhi. It will be freezing cold, around 2 or even less, probably snowing in some places. Its in the foothills of the Himalayas, and we should be able to see Nepal if we get high enough. It should be really beautiful. And it will be good to be somewhere less crowded.
I'm heading there with Mauri, Paula and Teo. Same people I went to Varanasi with. So it will be a quiet new years, which will be fine, although Mauri tells me in Italy they have a superstition that if you don't have sex on the 31st, you don't have any for the next year. Mauri's got Paula, but me and teo are up shit creek. Happy 2006 everyone.
2 comments:
Hi Tom,
It seems that you have come on a business tour to India and have got time to freak out. I was happy to read that you are working on the issue of AIDS in India. It is going to be big problem if it is not taken care of.
So you did not have good experience in Varanasi...I agree that most of the cities in India are too filthy and dirty. The administration and people are not much concerned with cleanliness. Infact most of the people in these areas are used to dirty and unclean streets. Since you are on tour in India I will suggest you DONT PURCHASE ANYTHING FROM TOUTS or roadside vendors. Seeing the foreigners they sell their goods at 10 times of its original cost. As much as possible keep yourself away from them. You will find people like these in all the major tourist spots.
Since you are going to Nainital, make it sure that you have adequate stock of warm clothes. Its too cool their. Also Delhi is getting cooler day by day. At night temperature drops to 3 degrees.
It feels good to read travel account of a foreigner on India. Every country has its positive and negatives.Have you find anything positive in India yet?
Most of the time what you see is not what is correct.People dont get offended by the cows roaming around the street as it is worshipped in India.Whenever a cow stands in front of door people feed him with whatever is available at home(I dont think you have noticed that).In the country the cow dung is used to make dungcakes which are dried and used as fuel for preparing food(I dont how will react at this).So the shit you see around the city in afternoon is cleaned by the people staying that area and is taken to prepare this dung-cake.
People staying in places like Varanasi, Allahabad are more inclined towards the reigious aspect of life. They have less attraction towards the materialistic world.
I think its enough for first time.What are you planning for New Year?
Aneways keep writing.
Abhishek Upadhyay
Thanks for the comments Abhishek. I am embarassed to have given the impression that I didn't like Varanasi. In fact, I found it a fascinating, beautiful city.
I think perhaps my post was influenced by my getting sick there and getting a little frustrated by the touts, and I certainly didn't concentrate enough on the positives of which there were plenty.
I really found the relgious aspects of Varanasi and the worship of the Ganges to be really interesting. I understand the importance of cows to Indian religion and also its economy in rural areas - really the shit wasn't that big a deal! But to me, and I think to other Australians, its amazing that you can walk down the street and almost get caught in a stampede - this is what I was trying to highlight, although perhaps I did it too negatively.
I will try to be more balanced in the future, because on the whole I have greatly enjoyed my experience in this country, and would hate people to think otherwise because I like to have a whinge in a few of my posts!
Thank you for your feedback.
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